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Haori

Japanese

Artwork Details

Haori
20th century
Japanese
silk, brocade
34 in (86.36 cm)
Gift of Howard and Patricia Yamaguchi
2013/2.475

Description

Subject Matter:

Yuzen is a stretch-resist dyeing technique invented by Miyazaki Yuzen, a famous Kyoto fan-painter during the Gentoku era (1688-1704). Yuzen has two dyeing styles: “Tegaki Yuzen” hand painting and “Kata Yuzen” stencil dyeing.

“Tegaki Yuzen” is the more traditional technique. Its hand-painting skills create beautiful and elaborate designs. “Tegaki Yuzen” is named differently according to the place in which it was produced: Kyo Yuzen (Kyoto), Kaga Yuzen (Ishikawa) and Tokyo Yuzen (Tokyo). They are the three major Yuzen in Japan. Among these, Kyo Yuzen is considered the most gorgeous and elegant. Chirimen refers to the unique wrinkled texture, also called crepe texture, created by a specific weaving technique. This texture is often used with traditional Japanese fabrics, often silk, wool, or synthetic fiber.

The Haori is a traditional Japanese hip or thigh-length jacket with elongated sleeves that is worn over the kimono. The Haori typically includes an interior lining with a design that is otherwise hidden from view when worn.The haori was originally part of a man’s formal attire, but in the nineteenth century, female entertainers in Edo (modern Tokyo) adopted it as a cloak for outdoor wear in mild weather. By the end of the century, married women of the upper class adopted black crepe silk haori with family crests for formal, public occasions. For much of the twentieth century, the haori has been the standard outerwear for a woman who dresses in a kimono outside the home.

Physical Description:

cream colored chirimen haori with tegaki yuuzen (hand-painted stencil) dyed maroon clouds, and hippogryphs, and phoenix motifs with a cream beige silk lining.

Usage Rights:

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