Obi

Subject Matter:

This is a nishiki, nishijin, and maru obi in otaiko gara.

Maru obi are the most formal type of obi, having elaborate patterned brocade or tapestry on both sides, typically decorated with rich gold thread. The classic maru obi measures 13inc (33cm) wide. It was most popular during the Meiji (1867-1912) and Taisho period (1912-1925). However, the maru obi is rarely worn today due to its excessive cost and uncomfortable weight.

Nishijin-ori textiles were developed in the Nishijin area of Kyoto city and has dominated the production of high-quality woven textiles since the fifteenth century. The production of Nishijin textiles is very complex and is specialized in five main areas—designing and creating patterns, producing silk threads, producing tools (including weaving machines), weaving, and final sewing—each executed in a different workshop.

Nishiki is a type of vibrant silk brocade with vivid and luxurious images using various colorful  and metallic (mainly gold and silver). Nishiki brocade is mainly produced in the Nishijin area of Kyoto.

Chirimen refers to the unique wrinkled texture, also called crepe texture, created by a specific weaving technique. This texture is often used with traditional Japanese fabrics, often silk, wool, or synthetic fiber.

Gara refers to the orientation, arrangement, and surface area of the patterns and pertains to a specific trend and obi tying style. The patterning in the Otaiko gara type is minimal. A few concentrated spots of patterned motif lie on the obi while the rest is left blank. This style was invented during the Edo period (1615-1868) by the female entertainers in Fukugawa, an entertainment district in present-day Tokyo.

The patterning in the Otaiko gara type is minimal. A few concentrated spots of patterned motif lie on the obi while the rest is left blank. This style was invented during the Edo period (1615-1868) by the female entertainers in Fukugawa, an entertainment district in present-day Tokyo.

Physical Description:

off-white chirimen maru (double-sided) obi with interwoven and embroidered gold square plates enshrouded in gold clouds and decorated with embroidered blue, orange, white, and yellow peonies, clouds, phoenix, mountains, autumnal foliage, chrysanthemums, and shokkou monyou (octagonal and square motif) patterning motif containing paulownia leaves.

Usage Rights:

If you are interested in using an image for a publication, please visit https://umma.umich.edu/request-image/ for more information and to fill out the online Image Rights and Reproductions Request Form.