One of Four Panels of Textile Fragments: Kinran and Karaori

Description

The textile at the left is adorned with a design of a dragon cavorting among clouds, a perennially favorite motif. Possibly part of an obi (sash), this stiff and heavy fabric makes use of kinran, one of many techniques for incorporating precious metals into fabric. Narrow strips of paper coated with gold leaf are actually woven into the fabric as wefts. Since the gold leaf can be extremely thin, kinran is a less extravagant process than couching foil-wrapped threads on the surface of the cloth.
The fabric at the right was once part of a garment worn in the Noh drama, for a female role. With its cool color scheme and autumnal plants (pine, bush clover, and pinks), it evokes a melancholy mood. The weaving technique seen here is known as karaori ("Chinese weave"), as it was originally developed in China. The warp threads are raw silk that has been tie-dyed in alternating large blocks of pale blue and brown. The plant forms—pine, bush clover, and pinks—are formed by long floating weft threads of degummed silk.
Exhibited in "Japanese Costumes & Ceramics, Past & Present," October 2001-February 2002. Maribeth Graybill, Senior Curator of Asian Art
The textile to the left, possibly part of an obi (sash for kimono) is adorned with a design of a dragon cavorting among clouds, a perennially favorite motif. This stiff and heavy fabric makes use of kinran, one of many techniques for incorporating precious metals into fabric: narrow strips of paper coated with gold leaf are actually woven into the fabric as wefts. Since the gold leaf can be extremely thin, kinran is a less extravagant process than applying foil-wrapped threads to the surface of the cloth.
The fabric to the right was once part of a garment worn by an actor playing a female role in traditional Noh drama. With its cool color scheme and autumnal plants (pine, bush clover, and pinks), it evokes a melancholy mood. The weaving technique seen here is known as karaori, meaning “Chinese weave,” as it was originally developed in China. The warp threads are made from raw silk that has been tie-dyed in alternating large blocks of pale blue and brown. The plants are formed by long floating weft threads of degummed silk.
Winter 2011 Gallery Rotation
Panel of textile fragments: kinran and karaori
Japan, early Edo Period (1615–1868)
17th–18th century
Left: Silk brocade with gilt paper (kinran)
Right: Silk brocade woven using the karaori technique
Transfer from the College of Architecture and Design, 1972/2.44.1
The textile to the left, possibly part of an obi (sash for kimono) is adorned with a design of a dragon cavorting among clouds, a perennially favorite motif. This stiff and heavy fabric makes use of kinran, one of many techniques for incorporating precious metals into fabric: narrow strips of paper coated with gold leaf are actually woven into the fabric as wefts. Since the gold leaf can be extremely thin, kinran is a less extravagant process than applying foil-wrapped threads to the surface of the cloth.
The fabric to the right was once part of a garment worn by an actor playing a female role in traditional Noh drama. With its cool color scheme and autumnal plants (pine, bush clover, and pinks), it evokes a melancholy mood. The weaving technique seen here is known as karaori, meaning “Chinese weave,” as it was originally developed in China. The warp threads are made from raw silk that has been tie-dyed in alternating large blocks of pale blue and brown. The plants are formed by long floating weft threads of degummed silk.